As the jewellery world’s most numerous (over 1,800 exhibitors) and well-liked (over 17,000 registered guests) commerce occasion, JCK delivered every day doses of latest jewellery design tendencies, networking blow-outs and well timed insights from June 8 – 13th. What’s extra, the Luxury show-within-the-JCK present for prosperous retailers glittered with fashion-forward and uncommon designs, whereas the GEMS exposition lured hundreds who admired and bought highest high quality gem stones, pearls and different treasures. Many compelling cubicles within the GEMS realm have been curated by members of The American Gem Commerce Affiliation (AGTA), which returned to JCK, having been away since 2019.
Staged by RX, the thirtieth annual JCK present at The Venetian and The Venetian Expo in Las Vegas was a cheerful searching floor for all the pieces from uncommon and excessive luxurious jewels to trend jewellery, naturally mined gems, lab-grown diamonds, diagnostic gear, jewellery making instruments and parts like settings and findings. This yr, nevertheless, JCK additionally supplied its attendees myriad probabilities to study and focus on greatest practices, systemic enhancements and jewellery tendencies throughout a dynamic schedule of seminars, panels and keynote addresses.
In response to Sarin Bachmann, group vice-president of RX’s jewellery portfolio, “The 2022 version of JCK exceeded pre-pandemic 2019 attendance numbers and reunited the jewellery business.” As Bachmann associated, “Stylized hearts and different symbolic motifs within the type of medallions or charms have been main tendencies.” Certainly, JCK’s glittering sea of symbolic jewels supplied at numerous value factors messaged that together with adornment, jewellery is more and more being retailed and worn nearly as good luck amulets, or talismans of energy. Seattle-based personal jewelry shoppers Todd Oliver and Craig Vicens agreed with this commentary.
“Our shoppers are undoubtedly within the psychological advantages that jewellery can supply. Nice jewellery adjustments your temper; your mind set, even the way in which you progress via the world,” Oliver mentioned. Making their annual JCK pilgrimage to purchase jewels for his or her roster of excessive internet value shoppers who’re too busy to buy in particular person or on-line, Oliver and Vicens scooped up one-of-a-kind designs from Milan’s Sanalitro Gioielli, Yael Designs, Gasia Jewels, Lauren Okay, The Mazza Firm, Simply Jules, Tara Pearls and Sloane Road. “We at all times discover designs right here which can be new to the market,” Vicens defined. “Uncommon, modern and one-of-a-kind design ideas, grasp artisanship, excellent gem stones and jewellery supplies: JCK is the place we discover them.”
Different notable tendencies from this yr’s present, Bachmann continued, “included vibrant coloured gemstone jewellery, particularly inexperienced gem stones.” Assume emeralds, tourmalines, tsavorite garnets, peridots and inexperienced sapphires. Whereas Bachmann famous that “Designs that includes pearls have been very a lot in proof,” so have been a number of iterations of yellow gold jewellery in 14-karat, 18-karat, 22 and 24-karat fineness. Considerably, Bachmann added, “There was additionally an increase in males’s jewellery.”
Whereas the just lately launched U.S. girls’s model Aurelie Gi drew lots of shops with its huge array of trendy, stackable and cosmopolitan 14-karat gold designs, it additionally enchanted many a retailer with an epic array of earrings for these rocking a number of piercing stylish. On the highest finish of the gold spectrum, 24-karat jewellery from Istanbul-based Cevherun distinguished itself with museum-worthy classical designs, lots of them one-of-a-kind.
Among the many exhibitors in numerous “neighborhoods” on the present flooring, JCK’s Design Collective gleamed with rising unbiased designers who’re rising stars within the business, together with extra established and modern makers. (These exhibiting within the Design Collective have to use and go JCK’s vetting course of, which entails deciding on solely these manufacturers that embody artistic and artisanally completed designs, rising tendencies and distinctive merchandise.) This yr the Black in Jewellery Coalition, which featured BIPOC designers, made its debut within the Design Collective. In response to Bachmann, “This offered a platform for gifted designers to be found by new retailers whereas forming new, long-lasting relationship, which is the top of a JCK expertise. At JCK and all RX Occasions, everybody belongs.”
One other invaluable and numerous side of this yr’s JCK concerned the continuous, informative program of keynote audio system, Showcase Stage panel dialogue, press conferences and different instructional displays. On Friday, June 10, the JCK Opening Keynote was introduced by Swan Sit, the previous World Head of Digital Advertising at Nike, Estée Lauder and Revlon, a.ok.a. “the Queen of Clubhouse.” Sponsored by Sarine, Sit’s tackle, “Web3 is Coming – Navigating the Previous, Current and Way forward for Retail,” unveiled insights on modern platforms and applied sciences just like the Metaverse, NFTs and Web3 which can be altering the way in which retailers have interaction with clients and inform a model’s story. All of those delivered advertising and design revelations, actionable retail improvements and different information that jewellery professionals can use to keep up a aggressive edge. However a number of the largest development bombshells have been dropped in producer’s cubicles, as effectively.
Working example: on June 10, Benny Landa, inventor and founding father of LUSIX, a serious lab-grown diamond (LGD) producer, introduced that LVMH Luxurious Ventures, Ragnar Crossover Fund, Extra Investments and different entities had simply injected $90 million into his Rehovat, Israel-based firm. “LUSIX will use this funding to gasoline its progress initiatives,” Landa defined over lunch within the LUSIX sales space. “These initiatives embrace the growth of its manufacturing capability in Israel with a second one hundred pc solar-powered state-of-the-art facility. It will begin manufacturing this summer time. The brand new facility,” he continued, “will allow LUSIX to higher serve the growing demand for LGD, from its shoppers worldwide and from the general business.”
Whereas Landa famous that, “I can’t converse for LVMH relating to their funding,” LVMH, which owns Tiffany & Co., Bulgari and different heritage manufacturers whose reputations emanate from luxurious pure diamond jewellery designs, clearly identifies LUSIX LGDs as possessing profound intrinsic worth— and international enterprise potential. That is maybe as a result of LUSIX is one in every of a handful of LGD producers to have been licensed as an environmentally sustainable enterprise by the eminent third-party scientific requirements group SCS Global Services, which is headquartered in Emeryville, CA.
Administered by a group of neutral scientists who’ve zero stake within the jewellery business, Landa ventured, “The SCS sustainable gemstone certification, referred to as SCS-007, is to the gemstone business what the USDA licensed natural normal is to fruits, greens and different meals. It’s a third-party affirmation and shopper assurance {that a} product has been investigated and located to be as sustainable as its producers declare it to be.” (Having devised and refined internationally accepted, sustainability certification normal applications for the reason that Nineteen Eighties for agriculture, forestry and numerous different industries, SCS is a world chief within the area of environmentally sustainable requirements creation and certification.)
However again to LVMH and its important funding in LUSIX, whose diamond-producing reactors in Israel are photo voltaic powered. LVMH is dedicated to proving that it’s measurably decreasing the local weather footprint of all its manufacturers. On the similar time, as a result of LVMH is advertising to millennials and others searching for diamond jewellery with protected designations of origin and sustainability, investing in LUSIX makes good quick time period and longterm advertising sense. Furthermore, it’s a matter of public report that almost all LGDs are produced in China, India and Singapore, nations with electrical energy grids which can be coal-powered, and due to this fact the polar reverse of sustainable.
Coal-fired energy era accounts for 30 % of all energy-related carbon dioxide emissions. When coal is burned, it reacts with oxygen within the air to provide carbon dioxide, a heat-trapping gasoline. Upon launch into the ambiance, carbon dioxide works like a blanket, warming the earth above regular limits. Thus, whereas many lab-grown diamond producers might declare that their merchandise are “sustainable”, if they’re utilizing coal energy to provide diamonds, they’re in actual fact contributing to international warming and therefore, greenwashing. With this in thoughts, LVMH or different luxurious teams dedicated to proving their company social accountability (CSR), establishing and sustaining shopper belief whereas constructing sustainable model fairness, have zero incentive to put money into something however licensed sustainable LGDs.
To obtain the SCS-007 certification, LUSIX supplies SCS with verified origin traceability of each diamond it sells. It additionally furnishes scientific proof that it has absolutely offset its local weather footprint. (SCS investigates all offsets earlier than verifying an organization’s local weather neutrality.) LUSIX additionally meets stringent environmental, social and governance (ESG) necessities that shield employees, communities and ecosystems by supporting 12 key ideas. What’s extra, LUSIX has been confirmed by SCS as attaining net-zero impacts for three-quarters of all manufacturing impacts related to diamond manufacturing, and it’s working to realize net-zero in all remaining classes.
Lastly, LUSIX has additionally made important long-term investments in local weather mitigation and help of Artisanal and Small-scale Mining Communities earlier than receiving certification from SCS. Put plainly, the existence of SCS-007 represents a chance for hundreds of thousands of knickknack business stakeholders to “inexperienced” their companies and thus assist restrict international temperature will increase to 1.5 levels Centigrade above pre-industrial ranges. (SCS World Providers even works with retail jewelers and designers to assist them obtain a sustainable enterprise certification for his or her shops, workshops and showrooms.)
“One can solely hope that extra main gamers within the gem and jewellery world begin taking the local weather problem as severely as LUSIX and SCS are doing,” famous John Pollard, Senior Director of Training on the International Gemological Institute (IGI). The most important group of its variety, IGI operates 20 laboratory areas all over the world that grade completed jewellery, pure diamonds, lab-grown diamonds and coloured gem stones. Pollard units the academic agenda for IGI’s 14 faculties of gemology, which graduate hundreds of supremely certified jewellery professionals every year. “Right this moment’s gem producers, designer, jewelers, producers and gemological institutes will likely be judged by future generations on how our business took motion to decrease international emissions,” he asserts. Pollard, who spoke on the JCK Talks “Accountable Sourcing” panel with Toby Pomeroy, founding father of the worldwide, non-profit Mercury Free Gold Mining group, added, “There are a lot of doubtlessly viable options to the issue, which is why ongoing training and imparting actionable information to our college students, shoppers and most of the people is vital to IGI’s mission.”