Chef David Yoshimura’s Nisei Restaurant Celebrates One Year In San Francisco

Final month, Nisei, situated in San Francisco’s Russian Hill neighborhood, celebrated a full yr in enterprise. Previously of Michelin-starred Californios, Chef David Yoshimura opened his debut restaurant to a lot acclaim. This inimitable tasting course vacation spot pays homage to his Japanese-American heritage by means of washoku model Japanese delicacies, offered in trendy, elevated methods.

One of many driving forces of the restaurant is Chef Yoshimura’s want to broaden diners’ expectations and understanding of what Japanese delicacies is. On the menu you received’t discover conventional sushi, ramen or noodles, however somewhat you can find inventive iterations of those meals in what he’s described as “Japanese soul meals.”

“Many individuals suppose Japanese meals is restricted to sushi and ramen,” says Chef Yoshimura, “when in actuality Japan has a wealthy meals tradition which is continually evolving.”

Programs on his progressive one yr anniversary menu included issues like kabayaki grilled unagi alongside three pickled facet dishes of narazuke melon, fermented carrot and pluot pickled daikon, served with furikake rice; richly marbled wagyu katsu paired with a thick black curry and chanterelles; and a multi-component course known as “ichuju sansa” or “one soup, three sides” of crab shinjo, tobiko, calendula and crab soup.

As a licensed sommelier, Chef Yoshimura additionally places great thought in to the beverage pairings as Nisei. He works alongside Nisei’s phenomenal normal supervisor, Ian Cobb, to showcase a collection of sakes and wines that complement the menu of daring flavors that include every of the 11 programs on any given tasting menu.

Subsequent door is sister bar, Bar Iris, a classy bar that provides a seasonal collection of Japanese-inspired cocktails to take pleasure in alongside Izakaya-type snacks like crispy nigiri with smoked roe, cured trout, rice, and nori or wagyu tartare with cured jidori yolk, miso mustard, chive and lotus root. The cocktails are distinctive to the season and incorporate shocking components. In style drinks embody the Middlechild with gin, verjus blanc and snap pea; and the seasonal particular, Aspect Hustle, with cantaloupe, egg white and shochu.

“The vibe and ambiance of Iris is smooth and horny, complementing the gorgeous cocktails,” says Chef Yoshimura. “Meals at Iris are small riffs off of Izakaya meals, a teaser to the meals subsequent door.”

We chatted with Chef David Yoshimura on the primary yr in enterprise, his objectives with Niesei, menu inspiration and extra. Right here’s what he needed to say.

How has the primary yr in enterprise been for Nisei?

There have been many ups and lots of downs this yr at Nisei. General, we’re very proud of the place we at the moment are.

Did the pandemic have an effect on opening in any respect?

The primary ideation of Nisei was projected to open in Could of 2020. After the federal government shut down, I switched the idea to bento bins till we secured our house on Polk St. We opened with a bang in August 2021, however the Omicron variant considerably slowed down enterprise final winter.

Discuss concerning the menu at Nisei. What is the inspiration behind it? How does it change the notion of what Japanese delicacies is?

The menu has a base in washoku model Japanese delicacies, however is offered in a contemporary type. Persons are very acquainted with Conventional Japanese dishes, however when plated in a recent rendition, it provides a refreshing change of tempo This adjustments the visitor’s notion of what Japanese delicacies is and will be.

The tasting menu at Nisei options 11 programs and a complete of 20 menu gadgets. There are caviar and wagyu dietary supplements as effectively if company have an interest. We provide a wine or sake pairing, in addition to a large number of uncommon spirits from our bar cart.

You have expressed frustration with what individuals take into account Japanese meals. Speak about this and what you hope diners take away from a meal right here.

Sure, I’m annoyed with the American notion of what Japanese meals is. I’m in a novel place, as a Japanese American chef, possessing the chance to teach diners to what Japanese delicacies affords from the previous and into the long run. I hope diners see that Japanese American delicacies will be pushed so far as every other delicacies on the planet. This was an necessary lesson I discovered from Val Cantu at Californios and his relationship to Mexican delicacies.

What is the course of prefer to create your tasting menus? How has your background and childhood influenced your delicacies at Nisei?

First, we virtually all the time depend on the seasons to information our menu adjustments. Moreover, at Nisei, I like that the creation of dishes is a collaborative effort. Normally I’ll communicate with the cook dinner in control of the dish to be modified and bounce concepts off of them. After a pair renditions, trial and error, it will definitely makes its solution to the menu.

Once I was rising up, I ate many house model Japanese dishes, like Teriyaki, Sukiyaki, or Oyakodon. I attempt to use these acquainted flavors and dishes to recreate dishes at Nisei. And like many different cooks, I take advantage of my previous kitchen experiences to information how I put together and plate my meals to the very best diploma attainable.

Discuss concerning the considerate wine and sake pairings and the way they complement your dishes.

Ian Cobb has spearheaded our wine and sake pairings for over a yr now, and has performed a wonderful job. I’m lucky sufficient to be a licensed sommelier as effectively, so Ian and I normally strive a number of pairings with every new dish till we discover the proper match. Ian has a whole lot of expertise with Japanese delicacies, due to this fact he chooses drinks to enhance a delicacies which usually is lighter in model, and leans towards seafood.

Discuss a bit of bit about Bar Iris subsequent door.

Bar Iris is the proud work of Ilya Romanov. Ilya creates masterful cocktails, drawing inspiration from Japanese delicacies and drinks. The drinks are deceivingly easy, however every cocktail accommodates an immense quantity of labor put into it.

Something thrilling within the works?

Nisei and Iris have developed within the final yr sooner than I might have imagined. We’re always reinvesting into the restaurant, refining ourselves to make the expertise higher every day.