Initially of Avenue Montaigne, within the coronary heart of Paris, stands the newly opened Henry Jacques Perfumes boutique. Although the family-owned French fragrance home was launched in 1975, that is their first retailer of their residence nation. That’s as a result of the situation and constructing itself needed to be excellent, with a wealthy historical past—no compromises or nook slicing, true to the heritage of Henry Jacques Perfumes. And flawless it’s, with its Belle Époque exterior, and a personal backyard—a real rarity on Avenue Montaigne—with flowers that change with the season.
“It was my dream to enter the shop via a backyard,” says Anne-Lise Cremona, CEO of Henry Jacques Perfumes. “I wished a home, a spot the place shoppers can come and spend time, as a result of luxurious is time for your self—it’s very uncommon. We began with the thought of getting a boutique idea, like a house, to have a little bit of thriller to deal with the fragrance the perfect we may, with no limits on the standard or design.”
Designed by French inside designer Christophe Tollemer, who can be the Creative Director of the model, upon coming into the shop, patrons are instantly greeted with a glass show case with objects that tells the historical past of Henry Jacques Perfumes, giving it the air of a museum-meets-atelier. That’s very a lot an intentional impact, as Henry Jacques Perfumes has all the time celebrated their heritage and historical past whereas maintaining a tally of the current and future. “The historical past of Henry Jacques Perfumes is essential,” Cremona says. “That was the perfect resolution we made as a result of at the moment the historical past is right here on a silver tray, and it is time for us to go towards the longer term. We signify custom and the bridge to the longer term.”
Henry Jacques Perfumes is haute perfumery, with a wealthy heritage that allows them to make trendy creations with a wow issue. Based by Henry Cremona to have a good time the previous French fragrance traditions, the maison’s creator was impressed by journey, tradition, rarity and refinement, qualities which nonetheless drive the home at the moment, which is now helmed by his daughter, Anne-Lise Cremona. She was working within the fragrance world in London when she came upon her dad and mom wished to retire and shut the perfumery, however she didn’t wish to see its legacy disappear, so she returned to France to steer it. She introduced it into a brand new course by opening retail whereas sustaining their id.
“My dad and mom are an unimaginable couple,” says Anne-Lise Cremona. “They’ve a ardour for magnificence and the work of fingers. They’ve extra motivation in constructing one thing than within the direct return. My father had an encounter with a nostril; this man grew to become his very shut good friend. Because the trade began to alter, he could not acknowledge what he discovered from era to era. The friendship has been actually stunning. Collectively they began constructing the laboratory and my dad and mom devoted their lives to it.” Her mom, Yvette, was instrumental within the laboratory.
When Cremona took over Henry Jacques Perfumes, her imaginative and prescient was to construct upon and pay homage to the corporate created by her dad and mom. She opened its doorways in 2014 to the general public after practically 40 years of solely creating {custom} fragrances for personal shoppers. To transition from a purely bespoke perfumery to providing a everlasting assortment, she parsed via data of each scent that they had ever created, narrowing it all the way down to 50 for Les Classiques assortment, all of that are genderless. “Essentially the most tough half was to dig deep into all of the formulation,” she says. “It was actually exhausting to cut back.” Every boutique additionally has just a few fragrances which might be unique to the situation.
“In a short time I understood that the one manner ahead was to be utterly impartial and to be current solely in our personal boutiques, so the enterprise mannequin was utterly uncommon and by no means seen earlier than,” Cremona says. Harrods quickly approached her with a proposal to have their very own boutique inside their flagship, in order that was their foray into retail. They’ve since expanded into a complete of 9 custom-designed boutiques dotted throughout the globe, spanning Beverly Hills to Dubai to Singapore, with plans to open extra sooner or later.
When shoppers come to buy a perfume it isn’t the everyday expertise of sniffing just a few blotters. Clients are swept into the library, a lab meets exploration zone, the place the professional workers guides them via an olfactory journey, with 1,200 elements. They’ll begin out by asking them their temper that day, or how they’d wish to really feel, for instance. In search of an vitality burst? They may current just a few citrus notes or accords, with an in-depth rationalization of every. Their perfumes might be utilized as a splash or a sprig, and the latter is invisible within the bottle, like magic. You gained’t discover any plastic within the bottles, as they use uncommon glass stoppers. There aren’t any added colours both; as a substitute they depend on the pure hue. “It’s a distinct method to stay along with your fragrance,” Cremona says.
Don’t count on to smell any synthetics right here—Henry Jacques Perfumes makes use of pure elements, sourcing the very best high quality from across the globe, together with uncommon ones like ambergris and orris. “Pure elements supply numerous feelings,” Cremona says. “A easy instance is the rose is quite common; they’re in every single place, in your deodorant and your washer, however you by no means really feel emotion while you use your laundry detergent. However if you happen to attempt a composition with actual rose, instantly you already know why it touches deep emotions and brings one thing else in. That is why we use pure elements. They’re uncommon and really tough to work with. We use as many pure elements as potential as a result of it is a part of our historical past and our formulation.”
Should you’re on the hunt for a bespoke fragrance, Henry Jacques nonetheless gives the expertise. Shoppers meet for a session, then the in-house perfumers toil for months to create three choices earlier than it’s narrowed all the way down to the ultimate alternative. The Paris boutique has a smooth but cozy room tucked away only for shoppers who’re creating bespoke scents. “We wished folks to really feel at residence, like they might lose themselves by way of taking the time to search out their excellent imaginative and prescient,” says Sache Kalifé, Communications Director (who can be Cremona’s son). Cremona provides, “It is an entire journey. Once they create a bespoke scent they are going to be in our e book and be a part of the historical past. That is one thing that individuals love as a result of it may be transmitted from grandparent to guardian to little one. It is like your heritage.”
Every bespoke expertise is exclusive, similar to the fragrance itself. They typically attempt to problem and shock the shopper, giving sudden choices they usually typically find yourself selecting a scent that’s completely different from what they initially imagined. It’s additionally an academic course of.
“Generally shoppers simply share feelings they usually just like the fragrance to make them really feel a sure manner moderately than saying elements that they like,” says Corina Manea, Worldwide Gross sales and Coaching Supervisor. “Every session could be very particular person, however we now have the completely different instruments to accommodate each completely different fashion of session. Some persons are actually keen about uncooked supplies and we’ll take them via that have, whereas others concentrate on feelings and incorporating the fragrance to present them a sure feeling or reminiscence to remind them of one thing very particular. We attempt to extract as a lot info as potential in order that we’ll have sufficient to work with. A session can get fairly intimate and it’s a really stunning, superb second to share and actually treasured to us as properly. The privilege of when a shopper opens as much as give us all this content material at moments of their life, it actually enriches us.”
All the perfumers at Henry Jacques are skilled in-house they usually don’t have a star nostril as a result of they need everybody to share of their imaginative and prescient and data. “The fragrance is the king,” Cremona says. “It’s what’s inside. That is why we now have these very classical bottles designed to boost the manufacturing. You want numerous humanity to face out as a result of it takes time. These are the values that make a distinction.”
Henry Jacques Perfumes has reimagined perfume with their Clic-Clac, a petite, elegant objet that holds a strong fragrance with a mechanism borrowed from watchmaking, designed by Tollemer. Years within the making, it may be endlessly refilled and carried in every single place. Though their fragrances are all unisex, they aimed to create one thing only for males. “We wished to search out the proper manner for males to have the ability to journey in every single place with fragrance,” says Kalifé. “Strong fragrance is essentially the most ancestral method to put on fragrance, relationship again to the Egyptians. It is tremendous primal in a manner that that you must maintain it in your hand, and it has weight to it. That is an object that shall be given to your sons and grandsons.” Manea provides that males have few adornments past watches, so it’s a manner for them to have one thing particular. “Males won’t ever stroll exterior with a fragrance bottle,” she says. “It is inconceivable for them to reapply in any other case and they’re actual fragrance lovers. We have seen this from our clientele that they’re overtaking girls.”
Regardless of their latest development, Henry Jacques Perfumes is decided to stay an impartial, family-owned model. The philosophy of the corporate is to concentrate on creating olfactive artworks—not the underside line. “The home was created with a ardour for excellent perfumery,” Cremona says. “Many of the trade switched to a extra world distribution of perfumes, so instantly manufacturers wanted to be current all around the world in big portions. However amount and high quality does not actually match. If you arrive to this stage, that you must compromise by some means, and the trade actually modified. My household, due to their ardour for magnificence and nice perfumery, by no means wished to comply with this development.”
That credo has guided them for practically 50 years—and can lead their manner as they develop into the longer term, persevering with to increase to different places around the globe, so long as they will discover the proper spot, staying true to themselves. “Perfumery is the final adornment; while you take away the whole lot then you definately nonetheless have your odor, your fragrance,” Kalifé says. “That is what folks will bear in mind of you.”