Mollusca presents 35 variations of its signature mussels dishes along with a wide-ranging menu.
I used to be not glad when New York’s so-called Meatpacking District gave option to blocks of stylish boutiques and electrical automotive dealerships, however the success of the Excessive Line as a neighborhood restorative and the set up of the Whitney Museum made it inevitable, and, I have to admit, the place seems to be lots higher than it did when it was filled with loud, grinding vehicles carrying carcasses day and evening on streets lined with effluent.
Specifically, the triangle that borders Greenwich Avenue and Little West twelfth Avenue is now a captivating, open area with purple umbrellas, and not less than in the intervening time the air area and light-weight has not been compromised by 100-story skyscrapers. But.
Mollusca has a small bar magnificently stocked with worldwide spirits.
There on the fringe of Little West twelfth Avenue is a brand new seafood restaurant named Mollusca, whose signature dish of mussels is served with an possibility of 35 sauces, from conventional white wine to cacio e pepe, condensed milk and wasabi, salted caramel and peanut and popcorn.
Mollusca brings up the sophistication stage of eating places within the Excessive Line neighborhood
Chef Gianmaria Sapia, from Savona, Italy, has joined proprietor Eric Agababayev and his Alpina Restaurant Group (which has six Molluscas in Moscow) on this bold enterprise; the manager chef on premises is Christian Bonilla, who comes from Zuma, the snazzy seafood chain that Mollusca resembles in measurement and menu departments.
However Mollusca’s menu isn’t just extra intensive however outstanding for the kitchen’s potential to end up so many disparate parts with such finesse, from ceviches to pastas, from lobster rolls to empanadas.
It’s a glossy and shadowy eating room, particularly at twilight, with a taupe marble cocktail bar that seats solely 9 (indicating Mollusca is not in search of a Tao-like vibe). The 100-seat room is properly lighted with hand-blown glass chandeliers resembling jellyfish, and the buttery delicate leather-based and velvet seating and tables are each nicely set and nicely separated. I used to be there on a reasonably sluggish Tuesday evening at summer time’s finish, so the noise stage was simply advantageous, with music taking part in solely faintly within the background.
You’re going to want assist perusing the huge menu, so ask, and regardless of my tasting (with three friends) of maybe 20 dishes with no main flaws, I can solely marvel how the kitchen can sustain when the place is packed.
We started with a hamachi ceviche with pickled jalapeño, wasabi mayo and guacamole ($19) in a fairly presentation that confirmed the East-West course the meal would take. So, too, branzino crudo got here with a yuzu dressing with a touch of truffle and tri-color tobiko eggs ($17). I’m unsure what’s so “traditional” in regards to the “traditional wagyu roll” ($34), but it surely was positively scrumptious and one of many higher concepts for utilizing wagyu beef. A tataki merchandise of wagyu, uni, recent truffle, ponzu aïoli and gold leaves ($68) was overly elaborate for a dish that hadn’t a lot taste and the summer time truffles have been as bland as summer time truffles at all times are.
The “Signature Oyster” dish comes with uni, mignonette and contact of caviar.
We did pattern mussels, in fact, which vary from $26-$48, and include a baguette and wonderful French fries. The Mollusca “signature oyster” is dressed with uni, a mignonette and a contact of caviar ($12). All people as of late appears to be doing a tartare or two, and Mollusca’s double model of tuna and salmon with caviar and nori rice chips ($33) was a advantageous melding of flavors.
Among the many many appetizers, we loved the 4 items of gyoza crammed with crab and glazed with teriyaki sauce and extra truffle ($22), and there’s even an authoritative rendering of crisp empanadas with crab, shrimp and artisanal cheese lashed with a spicy tomato sauce ($15).
There’s even pasta on Mollusca’s menu, together with this luscious risotto with truffles.
As you would possibly anticipate by now, there’s additionally a pasta and rice part, and a variation on spaghetti carbonara included teriyaki tuna tartare, bonito flakes and a parmesan crisp ($26) that I needed to admit had its singular charms. A well-made risotto of shrimp, spinach, cream, Parmesan fondue and black sesame seed ($31) was luxurious and will function a fundamental course.
Immensely fashionable, lobster rolls have turn out to be aNew England staple that at Mollusca is rendered with … [+]
Given the costs up and down New England as of late for lobster rolls, I needed to bask in Mollusca’s ($31), and it was easy and superb, particularly accompanied with these superior fries. Octopus with a Greek salad and feta mousse and leek puree ($36) was advantageous, if not a lot out of the strange in New York, however cooking branzino in “acqua pazza” (loopy water) with olive Taggiasca, pine nuts and charred cherry tomatoes ($48) added simply the correct parts to convey up the true flavors of the fish.
The desserts don’t hit the very best marks: crème brûléé ($16) was soupy; profiteroles ($16) wanted a greater chocolate; and the tiramisù ($17), even when topped with gold foil, was, nicely, one other tiramisù.
Mollusca’s wine listing has heft, and, as issues go, the bar presents a variety of specialty cocktails from cabinets that comprise nearly any liquor you may consider.
It’s that focus to all-encompassing element that enhances the nice seems to be and severe dedication of the kitchen to first-rate elements executed with a subtlety that’s shocking with such a protracted menu. If Mollusca can pull it off in addition to after I dined there when the crowds arrive, it’s going to be a really delectable tour de pressure.
MOLLUSCA
1 West Little twelfth Avenue
212-970-1818
Open every day for lunch and dinner.
