PAD Paris: 8 Contemporary Jewelry Highlights

PAD artwork and design truthful is again in Paris April 5-10, for the primary time because the covid pandemic compelled the world’s first modern design salon on-line. Fashionable artwork and vintage twentieth century furnishings shares area with collectible design and jewellery within the Jardins des Tuileries this week, and a bunch of impartial jewellery designers are garnering curiosity amongst the truthful’s design-led viewers.

With round 70 exhibitors, PAD is without doubt one of the few worldwide design festivals to incorporate jewellery alongside different ornamental arts, erasing the widespread notion that artwork with a operate is of lesser significance than that with out. Absent from the present this 12 months resulting from new post-Brexit import-export laws, are UK-based exhibitors who now want to point out in London within the Fall, however the primarily Europe-based exhibitor listing consists of galleries and particular person designers like Walid Akkad, returning with a standalone exhibit, and US-represented Indian jewellery artist Neha Dani, exhibiting her beautiful assortment in Paris for the primary time. 5 Octobre can be again, together with established Paris galleries like Karry Berreby and Negropontes, and the Stunning Watch, a Monaco and France-based classic luxurious watch specialist.

Second Pétale, the Paris-based on-line jewellery gallery run by Arina Pouzoullic, is on the present for the primary time, representing modern designers together with Marie Mas and MAD by Alex Dumas. Pouzoullic, who masterminded the Jewellery Abilities of Right now curation with Christie’s, sees the truthful as a chance for dialog with a multi-generational viewers and is happy to be exhibiting: “to premiere at PAD solely after three years within the enterprise is a crucial endorsement; the truthful is a good stage from which to speak my ardour to worldwide audiences and an necessary hyperlink between the Collector and the Artwork.”

“Folks come to marvel on the distinctive, genuine, new and totally different. I consider that collectors do not simply gather the item, but additionally the story of that object: PAD offers the sector and the context to inform that story to the general public,” says Pouzoullic, whose stand was one of many busiest on the opening evening. “Furthermore, throughout the context of grave world occasions, alternatives to attach with magnificence have change into uncommon. They’re crucial; I consider artwork could be a cultural lifebuoy.”

Learn on for eight items that made me cease for a better look, at PAD Paris.

BARE by Dries Criel

The precision of Dries Criel’s work comes from years of rigorous coaching as a dancer, nourished by his curiosity in structure and artwork to create strikingly trendy genderless jewellery handcrafted in Antwerp, Belgium. Impressed by Egyptology, the peaks and pleats of the Pyramid ring are accented with diamonds to create a pointy assertion piece that feels mild on the physique.

Represented by Second Petale

Cassiers

The sculptural work of Hermien Cassiers is the results of this math fiend’s exact mathematical formulation, which dictate the angles and form of every chain hyperlink in her woven gold jewellery, making every one comfortable and versatile, nearly spongey to the contact. A part of the Formulation X assortment, completely for Carpenter Workshop Gallery, the stones on this ruby ring are woven into the gold wire, held in place by an intricate system of tiny hyperlinks.

Represented by Carpenters Workshop Gallery

Marie Mas

Marie Cabirou has perfected her artistry round a kinetic jewellery idea that marries distinctive craftsmanship with an exploration of motion that has been a design obsession since she began her model in 2015. The topazes, amethysts and quartz on the Swinging Earrings are set again to again as utterly cell teardrops, whereas twin foldable ear posts make them reversible, so the teardrops may fall to point out the contrasting underside. Freedom in jewellery type.

Represented by Second Petale

Neha Dani

Neha Dani’s exquisitely crafted jewels are so meticulously thought-out, that every piece takes a number of months – generally years – to provide. The Indian-born jewellery designer’s work is sculptural and colourful; her most up-to-date items type the La Pluma assortment, designed and produced throughout the coronavirus pandemic, are impressed by birds and the lack of freedom throughout lockdown, just like the Loriini bracelet, above. “I might watch birds hovering excessive,” says the designer, “and I started to consider aspirations and freedom and what the lack of that freedom means.” A notice of post-pandemic positivity on the first face-to-face PAD Honest since 2019, executed to breathtaking impact.

MAD by Alex Dumas

After 5 years on the bench for one of many world’s most illustrious jewellery artists, Alix Dumas has solely been making her wearable artwork beneath her personal title since 2020, however the pandemic hasn’t been a barrier to success. She not often sketches, preferring as a substitute to sculpt instantly within the supplies themselves, and her meticulously crafted jewels have already been on present at Christie’s and received her a number of awards. The Hokusai Wave ring captures the essence of the unique paintings in sleek curves of sapphires and diamonds set right into a latticework of silver that Dumas spent many hours hand-sawing. “It could be near-impossible to attain such delicate detrimental area utilizing wax casting,” she informed me.

Represented by Second Petale

5 Octobre

In Sophie Pfeffer’s jewels, the main focus is firmly on the stones, organized in comfortable shade mixtures that invite straightforward class. In her signature multi-stone drop earrings lower and polished gems are rigorously pierced for mounting, moderately than set into metallic, protecting the main focus firmly on the stones themselves. She favours extra uncommon gems, just like the merely mounted ring of azurite malachite cabochon surrounded by diamonds, above: “it seems like a panorama, or a portray,” she mentioned.

Luz Camino

The primary girl to qualify as a Grasp Jeweler in Spain, Luz Camino’s creations are infused with the sunshine and vibrancy of her dwelling nation. She used brightly coloured stones to discover themes usually rooted in nature and the grace of on a regular basis object. Right here, the fragile picket whorls of pencils shavings are picked out in gold and sapphires: “the problem was to create a bit that basically appeared fragile and resembled wooden,” she says, an concept that “out of the blue got here to me, as apparent and simple.” A number of of her items at PAD Paris, are on present in Europe for the primary time.

Represented by Second Petale

Walid Akkad

Walid Akkad has made elegant, architectural jewellery his calling card, designed to intensify the types of the physique moderately than take over. This former Place Vendôme jeweler makes use of stones judiciously, to accent his signature clear curves, making consolation a precedence by working with the physique to create oval bangles, chains that drape over the collarbone and rings that slip simply onto fingers. These gold assertion earrings make a classy assertion in extremely polished gold rimmed with diamonds.

PAD Paris runs till April 10, on the Jardins des Tuileries in Paris.