Philippe Starck Reimagines La Reserve Eden Au Lac In Zurich

The famed French industrial architect and designer Philippe Starck may not be the primary identify that involves thoughts when selecting to revamp one in every of Switzerland’s rarefied five-star lodges. Starck appeared a considerably unlikely option to deconstruct and reimagine the resort Eden au Lac in Zurich, higher recognized for whimsy and daring statements than the usually conservative tastes discovered on this metropolis of bankers.

Once I stayed there 15 years in the past, the French Empire-style property was notable for its very good location throughout the road from Lake Zurich and one in every of Europe’s liveliest and greenest waterfront parks.

That location continues to be enthralling. It’s only a few minutes’ stroll to the Opera Home and the gorgeous Pavilion Le Corbusier, the grasp architect’s final constructing, which was renovated and reopened in 2019. It’s additionally lower than 10 minutes to the Bahnhofstrasse, town’s stately purchasing avenue.

However throughout that first keep, the resort additionally had the drained look of a resort from a Le Carre spy novel, appropriate for world-weary spies, maybe, however not for these on vacation.

Minimize to 2022 and Starck’s radical reinvention of this grand dame as “an imaginary yacht membership” that might not look misplaced in St. Tropez. The resort had a quiet reopening in the course of the pandemic however now could be absolutely open. Now referred to as La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich, it’s a part of Michel Reybier Hospitality, which took over the resort in 2015 and likewise oversees the Victoria Jungfrau in Interlaken, the Mont Cervin Palace in Zermatt and the Bellevue Palace in Bern. The transformation is dramatic and fairly stunning, the property buzzing with out seeming overly busy.

Zurich is already house to some legendary five-star properties, such because the Baur au Lac, Storchen and the Dolder Grand. The Eden au Lac is way extra intimate – there are simply 40 rooms – and the dimensions makes it really feel extra like a palatial villa. The employees meets and greets you and continues to take action – discretely – throughout your keep. It’s a really private and welcome contact.

Additionally it is in one in every of my favourite Zurich neighborhoods. Straight throughout the road from the resort is the Artwork Nouveau-era Dangerous Utoquai, a turn-of-the-last-century bathing pavilion on Lake Zurich. That very same considerate resort employees presents complimentary entrance passes, locks and swim luggage with flip flops and towels within the occasion you wish to swim within the lake, as I do each time I’m within the metropolis.

The transformation of the century-old constructing in Switzerland’s largest metropolis was clearly a problem for Starck, who stated, “La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich is like dancing rock and roll with the Queen of England. Every little thing is conventional but resolutely unconventional. It’s a timeless cocktail composed of classicism, modernity, intelligence and creativity.”

That interprets to splendidly appointed guestrooms, the most effective of which overlook Lake Zurich and the hills past. Picket flooring are a counterpoint to expansive, light-filled views. The rooms have leather-based accents and delicate furnishings, in addition to the usage of metallic in locations the place you’d look forward to finding wooden, which I consider as a Starck hallmark. Bogs, which function rain showers and stand-alone tubs, aren’t enormous however definitely luxurious.

The foyer has a DJ – you learn that proper – who performs tunes from cocktail time by way of the early night. Proceed to the glass elevator, which rises slowly and permits views of different flooring as you ascend to the highest, providing a form of Rear Window expertise. The highest of the resort is Zurich’s social life writ giant, beginning with the spectacular rooftop bar, with its panorama of town. The La Muña restaurant has exterior tree-lined eating overlooking Zurich in addition to inside eating. The comfortable inside is a sloped-ceiling area full of nautical memorabilia, together with wood boats hanging from the ceiling. The menu from Chef Domenico Zizzi is Japanese- Peruvian. You’ll be able to count on sushi, sashimi and ceviches on this cozy area, together with entrees like Black Cod marinated in miso and served with candy potato, radish and plantains.

Italian chef Marco Ortolani has created an creative and daring menu on the welcoming Eden Kitchen & Bar on the bottom flooring, with snug and comfortable seating and home windows looking onto the lake. It’s the antidote to starched white eating in a metropolis that may typically be fairly formal.

Behind a inexperienced tile counter, the busy open kitchen seems amuse-bouches reminiscent of chocolate and foie gras cones, Vermouth-filled black olives and a bao bun truffle. Transfer on to starters like beef tartare coated in a garden of chives and topped with a dollop of mustard that appeared like a fried egg. Or a pasta dish the place squid is the substitute for pasta, with pecorino, pork cheeks and egg. There have been dishes just like the exceptional Acquarello Risotto, with lime, inexperienced beans ceviche and the small shrimp generally known as cicale di mare adopted by entrees reminiscent of butter-tender grilled beef from Simmental cattle.

The wine listing, which has some very well-chosen Swiss wines, additionally has a bevy of French choices, together with wines from Reybier’s personal vineyards. These embody wines from his famed vineyards in Cos d’Estournel. It was a extremely memorable meal and radically completely different from different tremendous eating experiences I’ve had within the metropolis. Ortolani already has 15/20 Gault Millau factors, and one suspects that he have to be on a brief listing for recognition from Michelin.

The return of the Eden au Lac is one thing to have a good time. It’s a extremely subtle resort aimed toward a realizing worldwide crowd and the proper lair for a few nights earlier than you embark in your explorations of Switzerland.