That is the second of two articles about numerous Sardinian wine areas—highlighting areas within the south, in addition to within the west and east of this island. The primary article highlights northern Sardinia, and contains common details about this island and wines.
Vernaccia di Oristano—Western Sardinia
The western Sardinian city of Oristano was beforehand named Aristanis when dominated by the Byzantine Empire—principally the late Roman Empire when the capital had moved from Rome to Constantinople (Istanbul) in what’s now Turkey. This inland city was fashioned within the 9th century as a refuge for locals eager to keep away from coastal seafaring raids by Saracens from northern Africa. At present the city contains a formidable lone stone tower inbuilt 1290 by King Mariano II as certainly one of 4 gates that after entered town.
This metropolis and area are additionally recognized for Vernaccia di Oristano—the identify of a white Sardinian grape used to make a fortified wine produced in an oxidized type—with air saved in barrels throughout fermentation. This offers aged traits to nonetheless younger wine. This distinct wine acquired the primary Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wine standing conferred to Sardinia, in 1971. Aged in oak or chestnut, this wine is dry, potent and suave.
A delicatessen proprietor in Oristano insisted that Vernaccia di Oristano wine doesn’t pair effectively with meals, is drunk solely throughout festivals, is finest served as an after dinner digestif and that most individuals dislike its taste. Her apologetic habits was partially comprehensible in that the wine is really totally different (but her viewpoint was pointless as a result of additionally it is scrumptious). Right here home made samples—mild and darkish—are served in shot glasses.
The lighter contains aromas and flavors of candied pears, gingerbread cake and apple cider and is surprisingly straightforward to drink. The darker model contains aromas of red-hot candies, apple strudel and Moscato wine, and flavors of rum, candied apples and ginger—coated in glossy acidity. Each—whether or not there’s a pageant or not—are distinctive and pleasant.
Southwest—Carignano del Sulcis
In Sardinia’s southwestern province of Cagliari is situated the DOC zone of Carignano del Sulcis, the place pink and rosé wines are constituted of the Carignan grape. They’re famend as a result of many vines are pre-phylloxera—therefore not grafted onto American vine rootstock. After century phylloxera louse decimated vineyards all through the world within the 18th century, such grafting solved this worldwide downside. Vines not needing such grafting are uncommon however nonetheless exist on sandy soils, by means of which the louse can not tunnel.
The Sulcis area contains the island of Sant’Antioco—joined by highway to the mainland. In its northernmost coastal city of Calasetta you may style a 2019 Marchese di Tabarka Carignano del Sulcis DOC. It contains hefty darkish aromas of cola, gunpowder and prunes—a darkish shock paying homage to a Nerello Mascalese from Sicily assembly a Tuscan Sangiovese. Flavors embody these of chocolate, darkish plums, mandarins and a success of minestrone; tannins are assertive however elegant and the background acidity is fiery.
Subsequent—attempt a extra famend 2017 Cantina Santadi Terru Brune Carignano del Sulcis—a 95/5 mix of Carigna and Bovaleddu from pre-phylloxera vines. It ages in French oak for as much as a yr and a half. Aromas are brisk and considerably saline and embody these of pink plums, some leather-based, mocha, black cherries and moist granite. It is a layered, effectively balanced and textured wine with suave tannins and rounded acidity, in addition to flavors of cocoa, cooked plums and even beef; on the end—cherries and morels.
East—Jerzu
Arid and scrub lined parts of southern Sardinia resemble rural Wyoming. Street tunnels listed below are as critical and prolific (and demographic-altering) as these inside the Portuguese Atlantic island of Madeira.
Traditionally, Sardinian highlands have been related to stability. Take into account that seafood doesn’t type many conventional recipes in comparison with inland greens, meat stews and cheeses. The explanations embody the truth that coastal lands had been traditionally prey to marine invasions in addition to to malaria—which pushed populations inward to greater elevations to outlive.
The hillside city of Jerzu—which has existed because the twelfth century—is situated at an elevation of about 1,500 toes (450 meters) above sea degree within the east central highlands. It is a land of chestnuts, almonds, olive oil and vineyards, in addition to rocky outcrops and switchback roads.
Jerzu produces a highland model of Cannonau (Grenache). The wine is famend sufficient {that a} native ‘wine highway’ was documented right here within the sixteenth century, and at present a summer season sagra del vino—wine pageant—is held yearly. Then, locals costume in conventional garb and haul historic grape carts across the steep city.
For instance of native wine, attempt a 2017 Josto Miglio Cannonau di Sardegna Jerzu Riserva DOC. It contains zippy and exquisite aromas of pink cherries, chocolate brownies, orange peels and even mint crisp. The considerably huddled fruit flavors—pink cherries and plums—are bathed in mouth-watering acidity. The wine is smooth and layered, and native eateries, equivalent to Ristorante su Cannonau da Concetta, will serve this (or wine from Cantina Jerzu) with cinghiale in umido—stewed wild boar.
For a traditional Sardinian dessert? Strive seadas—principally an enormous ravioli full of pecorino sheep’s cheese and zested lemon, then deep fried and slathered in honey. For a dessert wine—a Zedda Piras digestif constituted of myrtle: a black magnificence with flavors of nutmeg, cinnamon and white pepper. Delicious.
Sardinia is split into 4 administrative provinces, and in addition a large portion of land comprising the Metropolitan Metropolis of Cagliari within the south. You’ll find native wines all through every of those areas. Should you reside elsewhere, attempt shopping for a collection of bottles from totally different areas of Sardinia; then, prepare dinner a dinner with pals. Pattern these whereas looking for one of the best map of Sardinia’s wine areas. That may hold you nourished, sated, and curiously analytical at the least by means of dessert.