What does it take for an impartial jeweler to acquire probably the most coveted sustainability certification round? Since January 2022, Shakti Ellenwood has been considered one of solely 4 artisan jewelers on the planet to carry the B Company label, and the primary goldsmith within the UK to make the grade. She makes Fairtrade gold amulets and gemstone rings in her studio on the sting of Dartmoor, England, with a meticulous method to moral jewellery that earned her a B Corp rating of 113.7 and Finest for the World 2022 standing.
“It is changing into more and more laborious to run a jewellery enterprise with out an moral method. Individuals search for it now,” she says. “Even the truth that some corporations really feel they should greenwash exhibits there was a shift. I hope customers will proceed to help small companies, ask questions and push for extra transparency.”
Shakti is looking forward to the way forward for the consumer-led motion in the direction of better sustainability and is inspired by agenda-setting measures taken by trade leaders like De Beers. She believes ‘issues have moved on massively” since she first began working sustainably again in 2011 and commenced utilizing Fairtrade gold 4 years later.
Maybe nonetheless, it’s best-in-class sustainable jewelers like herself from which the remainder of the trade ought to be taking their cues. Possibly we must always all suppose a bit extra like Shakti, and assist make jewellery companies a drive for good. Right here’s how she does it.
What first drew you to jewelry?
After I was youthful, I spent a whole lot of time in India. Asia was the place I noticed I used to be artistic, I performed round with leather-based belts, made string necklaces – I believe I used to be consciously searching for a artistic outlet. Then I obtained sick, and an Israeli goldsmith who was residing on the highest flooring of my visitor home in India nursed me again to well being. I might watch him sitting within the nook, creating wonderful items with gem stones and I had a lightbulb second, I used to be fascinated by the intricacy of all of it.
Your work attracts on rituals and various world cultures. What’s your greatest inspiration?
I’m very impressed by my travels. I went to Mexico and frolicked with artisan silversmiths, then took jewellery courses in San Francisco. After I started researching, Egyptian and Historic jewellery drew me in immediately, I like its religious significance. My work retains that historic look.
My Thunderbird and Rainbow Serpent amulets have been born of visions I had whereas taking tribal medicines throughout rituals in Mexico. The thunderbird is a mythological creature that’s revered for creating the rainstorms wanted for harvest, it creates booming claps of thunder, lightening bolts out of its eyes, and has the energy to raise a killer whale. My Deer with a Peyote Button necklace was additionally impressed by a Huicholi Indian legend, I am fascinated by the folklore and mythology behind symbolism.
What’s it about gold that you just get pleasure from a lot?
I like the colour, texture and heat of 18 carat gold, it is like butter to work with. From a religious standpoint, gold has purity, carries a excessive vibration and can be utilized to transmit power, which is why it’s seen in church buildings, mosques and different non secular locations.
I am a healer in addition to a goldsmith I am acutely aware of the power I am placing into my bespoke work and can usually put therapeutic codes into my jewellery, so a specific piece can be utilized like a key to unlock happiness, safety and blessings. I even sing mantras whereas I am engaged on items that are not made particularly for sure folks, or say a prayer for the jewels. Indian mantras carry therapeutic vibrations inside them, all indigenous tribes connect with the traditional feeling of spirit. It is actually necessary to me that the jewellery goes past what appears to be like fairly.
Why is an moral method so necessary to you?
There is a degree of integrity that comes with making an attempt to method a enterprise from a holistic standpoint. I felt strongly that jewellery was what I used to be meant to be doing, so I used to be upset once I heard of the atrocities within the mining world. I knew I needed to discover options, I got here throughout Fairtrade gold and all of it went from there.
For me, an moral method to jewelry-making comes from compassion for folks, animals, and the setting. Particularly, I would like no struggling to be a part of the manufacturing of my uncooked supplies and I believe that vibration carries via to the ultimate piece.
You achieved B Corp certification with an distinctive rating, did you count on this and to what was it due?
It was surprising, I used to be truly apprehensive whether or not I might be capable of go in any respect! The entire course of took a 12 months, with the assistance of an impartial B Corp jewellery advisor. I just lately discovered that I am within the high 5% on the planet for my space of experience, which makes me Finest for the World B Corp 2022.
My rating additionally displays the excessive donation on my earnings; 2% of gross sales go to social and environmental causes, and I’m a part of 1% for the Planet, which inspires companies to provide away 1% of gross sales whether or not or not they’re worthwhile that 12 months.
Inform me about a few of the methods by which moral jewellery can have a optimistic impact on the planet and its inhabitants.
Shopping for Fairtrade gold ensures that individuals who work alongside the availability chain can stay correctly. Miners can usually barely afford to feed their households, youngsters are compelled to work with mercury in harmful mines, it’s totally troublesome to manage. For those who purchase a bit of Fairtrade jewellery, miners have been paid a good wage, that security and safety are in place and the mines do not poison the setting. They obtain a ten% premium from Fairtrade, which permits the entire neighborhood to thrive – they will purchase computer systems or construct faculties with it, for instance. Fairtrade additionally invests in native artisanship by working with organizations like Turquoise Mountain, which helps artisans in Afghanistan, Myanmar and the Center East.
Selecting the best stone provider means you may see what is going on on at every mine and what they’re doing in that nation. I supply my moral diamonds from Candamark, which works with indigenous folks to guard the wildlife close to their mines. I take advantage of rubies from Greenland Ruby, which helps analysis into polar bears and local weather change, via their Pink Polar Bear Basis.
What three measures would you suggest for designer-makers, to make their companies extra sustainable?
1: Be part of a company just like the Truthful Luxurious Collective within the UK, with a shared imaginative and prescient for accountable mining and a sustainable future. It is nice to really feel a part of a neighborhood working in the direction of the identical objectives, sharing concepts, data and analysis. I additionally took the Truthful Luxurious Pledge: annually, the group invitations folks to make a pledge to enhance their enterprise biz socially and responsibly over the subsequent 12 months.
2: Have a look at your supplies, examine sourcing and search for options when you’re developing towards useless ends when it comes to traceability. Botswanan diamonds are all now traceable, however Africa is so large and corrupt it is extraordinarily troublesome to make sure an moral method all over.
3: Go onto the B Corp web site and begin filling within the evaluation to establish areas of what you are promoting that might be improved. It’s extremely particular, and a really thorough method – particularly round gold mining.