Labastide-d’Armagnac in France
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Armagnac—a chef’s brandy—is each delicate and striated with taste.
French Armagnac brandy has been produced for seven hundred years—centuries longer than Cognac brandy. These spirits differ in key methods. Grapes to make Armagnac are grown inland across the Garonne River between the town of Bordeaux and the southern Pyrenees peaks—the place the local weather is continental. Grapes for Cognac, as compared, develop adjoining to the Atlantic Ocean between the cities of Bordeaux and La Rochelle the place the local weather is each temperate and oceanic. Whereas 95% of Cognac is produced from the Ugni Blanc grape that thrives above limestone soils, grapes for Armagnac embody Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Baco and Colombard, which sprout over quartz sand and siliceous clay soils. Cognac is double distilled, whereas Armagnac is normally distilled solely as soon as, therefore features a decrease alcohol content material.
Whereas Cognac is famend and exported all through the world, Armagnac is extra famend inside France. Attributable to its prolonged historical past of manufacturing—this spirit can be embedded within the annals of French cooking.
Dame Jeanne glass globes containing Armagnac
Tom Mullen
‘My grandfather grew corn and sunflowers within the Landes area and visited this property,’ defined Denis Lesgourgues, co-owner of Château de Laubade, situated a two-hour drive west of the town of Toulouse.
‘He was 70 years outdated and needed to make a vital determination. He was impressed by the panorama and the potential of the terroir, so he bought this land. That’s how our household received into Armagnac. My father then had the imaginative and prescient to develop into a terrific producer. He determined to plant extra vines and to age Armagnac. He constructed stock for eight years earlier than he was capable of promote. Happily he had funds from having already been profitable in agriculture. My brother and I joined within the late 1990’s because the third technology.’
Denis Lesgourgues of Armagnac producer Chateau de Laubade in France
Tom Mullen
That preliminary household buy was some 50 years in the past. The household now owns about 250 acres (103 hectares) of vines, in addition to an oak forest and a poplar grove. The poplars assist regulate humidity throughout spring, when close by lands obtain ample moisture and rain from the Pyrenees peaks.
The Laubade property contains seven separate cellars which maintain Dame Jeanne inexperienced glass globes in addition to 420 liter (111 gallon) barrels. The property additionally ages oak staves from the Gascogne area on their property, which they then go to a cooper every year to make barrels.
‘Armagnac is much less recognized than Cognac. We need to supply one thing totally different that represents a real fashion of Armagnac, with a purpose to defend it,’ Denis emphasised.
The household’s stately house sits earlier than two cedar of Lebanon timber and a distant vista of the snow-capped Pyrenees peaks. Inside a luxurious front room, we tasted two vintages with Denis. The 12-year-old Armagnac contains floral and peat aromas, and within the mouth advanced tastes embody figs. The 30-year-old contains mint, earth and prune aromas and tastes wispy gentle and balanced, with flavors of caramel, figs and prunes.
Denis Lesgourgues subsequent to a copper nonetheless for producing Armagnac
Tom Mullen
‘A fancy rancio profile within the mouth,’ Denis talked about, referring to excessive alcohol wines made with extra oxygen than typical dry wines. ‘And the colour is pure, not like many whiskies the place shade is added.
‘We like excessive acidity and low alcohol in Armagnac to offer ageing potential. The Folle Blanche grapes present aromatics, the Baco is proof against black rot and mildew, and Colombard—find it irresistible or hate it. It’s peppery and spicy, however may also be dense and younger.’
The Lesgourgues’ front room is usually additionally a tasting room
Tom Mullen
Throughout the identical journey we additionally visited Maison Janneau, a producer of double distilled Armagnac. Distillery supervisor Jean-Noël Dollet confirmed us tall copper stills earlier than we tasted supple and stylish samples together with wealthy flavors of inexperienced apples, prunes, chocolate and cherries.
Each aperitif and digestif, Armagnac is wealthy, advanced and brimming with delicate flavors. Strive sampling this oldest distilled spirit on this planet not simply as an alternative choice to Cognac, however as an addition to your cooking repertoire in addition to a window to lesser recognized features of French tradition and geography.
